* US Shipments:
Priority flat rate mail for US can take 1-3 business days (not including processing time) & shipping times could vary dependent on seasons/holidays & other. If you prefer some other shipping method or want to include insurance on your shipment Over the automatic $50 insurance that Priority Flat Mail offers, PLEASE message me PRIOR to your order placement so that I can calculate that cost based on your order. Thanks.
* Please note, I am not responsible for any lost or stolen shipments. Shipping time frames are estimates based on the USPS website. I am not responsible for any shipping delays once any orders have shipped
* International Shipments:
Sorry, I am only shipping within the US at the moment. There are just too many factors to calculate each country costs and shipping seems excessive in cost these days. Apologies.
* Please specify your name, email on order, order date, order #, as these are necessary to look up your order.
* Note: If a Tracking # was given after your order shipped, please go to USPS.com to enter the tracking # there for shipping updates. If you look up your tracking # on the USPS.com website, and found it was delivered but you still do not have it, then you will have to contact your local postal branch to get more info (or ask around to your neighbors). Thanks.
* Sorry, I no longer do custom work. Thanks for understanding.
* The only alterations I am doing at current, are
adjusting chain lengths, or ear hook style of a current product or to
change out material of base chain or ear hook to something else.
(*Please note some materials or much longer lengths may require an
additional cost). There is a rare chance that some pieces may not be alterable.
* Any Alterations of this nature, PLEASE send a message request PRIOR to order placement and include your name, location and a link to the product in question for my reference. THANKS.
* I do offer layaway in the form of payment plans. I request at least 1/3 deposit on the order. At that time I will pull the piece/s from inventory and set aside until your order is payed in full. After I collect the deposit, you will outline your own payment schedule (amount paying and planned dates). It is up to you to keep in touch with me regarding any changes to your payments (ie: late payments or any other changes), as I am only flexible as long as we are in touch and I understand any changes requested prior to your payment date. ALL DEPOSITS and Payments are NON-REFUNDABLE. Failure to keep in touch or if I don't hear from you at all for 2 months with no email contact / no payments, you will forfeit your previous deposit/payments.
Please note there will be a $1 transaction fee added to each payment past the initial deposit. Taxes will also be added and if you need the item shipped to you, then that cost will be added into your final total. Once paid in full your order will be shipped and you will receive a delivery confirmation #.
* Please Contact me if you desire a payment plan/layaway, by messaging me with your full name, mailing addy, best way to contact and best times to do so, and any links to products you are interested in. If you have any questions, let me know. CONTACT ME
*** ALL SALES ARE FINAL! *** Sorry, No Refunds!
* Please pay attention and thoroughly read through the description posted with each listed item, and make sure you understand the measurements and other details given. I have described the creation as detailed as possible. Most pieces are art creations and each is handmade by me. I utilize different jewelry and non jewelry techniques, as a result, jewelry finishes or stones may be rough or have imperfections, which only give each creation more character, and each stone may not be perfect, especially in the case of raw or rough crystals, fossils, minerals (they may have knicks, chips, dings, inclusions, cracks, scratches, pits etc.). Rough/Raw crystals and stones are not meant to be perfect, and some sculpted or stamped metal work may have dings, light scratches etc. I try to post photos to showcase my work from different angles. If there is a light scratch, knick, etc, it may not show up in photos, if the stone/piece in question has an obvious natural defect, I will attempt to show that in the description and or photos. Some pits/cracks/chips are inherent in natural stones and some were formed when other stones/crystals were growing around or next to it (that may have subsequently fallen away or have been separated from a cluster). Some stones like Labradorite & other Feldspar, are notorious for inclusions, cracks, scratches and pits, this is the nature of the stone.
*** So, if you are looking for perfect, my lines may not be for you.***
* Special Note:
Computer monitors will vary, so colors may not be exact on how the
creation or stones look in real life. I try to describe color nuances if
any, but even on my own computer monitor, colors are far more vibrant
than the actual creation. If you need more photos of a piece to make a
decision, please let me know. If EVER a question, please Contact me
Prior to placing an order.
* If there is a problem with the piece upon receiving that wasn't caused in transit, please let me know ASAP. Thanks.
* I offer a free cleaning service on my Sorcery Collection creations, for the sculpted metal portion of a pendant in the collection, (I may gently wipe down chains and or stones if needed). I will not be polishing stones/chains that may be worn down by constant wear/time. Along with basic cleaning (if crusty), gentle polishing etc, I will take a look at clasp and any jump rings and structural integrity of chain etc, as best as I can. If I find these need to be replaced because of wear and tear, I will let you know, if a simple jump ring, I will check the connection and replace, but for clasps or chain redo etc, I will let you know my findings and you can decide if you would like me to renew/refresh/replace (*there may be a fee). While I am happy to do this service for free (Sorcery Collection line only), you will have to pay shipping/insurance both ways if applicable.
* If you have other creations in my other lines that you would like me to see if I can spiffy up, there may be a slight fee for this service (case by case basis, and with prior verbal or written notice and including photos sent to me to assess what might be required). Think of it as an EYESCREAM Tune-up but instead of a car, I am checking your past EYESCREAM creations to make sure all is in order.
***If you are local to my shop, you could request to schedule a time to drop off your piece/s for cleanup etc. I function better in late afternoons, but with enough advance notice can do earlier drop-off if need be.***
* Please note: I cannot re-plate any base metals chains, findings, stampings etc.
that are plated (ie: gunmetal, antiqued brass/bronze/copper/silver
plate etc). I do not have the facilities for such work. I do offer
some chains you could purchase if you need a fresh chain, and if you desire
that I attach your pendant or creation to a chain, I do not charge to
attach pieces to new chains (only the cost of the chain you desire, and
you would need to pay for shipping both ways).
* PRO-TIP: To keep your metals, chains, and EYESCREAM creations the Freshest they can be, always store in an enclosed pouch, baggie or box and away from air (to prevent unwanted oxidization), also avoid direct prolonged sunlight/heat & storing in places where moisture occur.
If ever a question, please CONTACT ME Thanks.
* Always treat stones and my art jewelry with love, respect & care when worn or stored: Most crystals, glass, stones, and other natural objects from the earth, can be prone to marring or chipping if treated harshly. Please keep harsh chemicals away from art jewelry and do not stack other heavy items on top of EYESCREAM creations, and please avoid extreme heat and or water with most creations (*please read General Care & Avoidances FAQ for more info on water/heat/Chemicals).
*** Any other questions you might have prior to purchase, please do not hesitate to contact me: I try to know what metals and stones I use, but sometimes I have had stones so long in my collection, that their name eludes me. If you have some earlier EYESCREAM creations, and wish to know how best to clean or care for your pieces, drop me a line at the contact link. Thanks.
* While most pieces may be water resistant, they may not be waterproof. So, submerging some creations in water for extended periods may not be good on a stone, metal or creation. Avoid showering/swimming in pieces and if you get an item wet, please pat dry prior to storing. Any pendants on a cotton slide knot cord, or other type of cording, should NOT be worn in the shower. Cotton cord is basically fabric and will break down fast, discolor, or get gunky with multiple showers, and products like soaps, shampoo, lotions etc, being soaked into the cord each washing, and eventually the cord Will fall apart.
* Keep All harsh chemicals away from metals, porous stones or bone and from your Resin/Shrink Art and or painted/enameled pieces (ie: rubbing alcohol, hair spray, aerosols, nail polish remover etc) as aerosols (including spray perfumes) can attach themselves to the surface of resin/shrink art or other porous surfaces and chemicals might have a reaction to paints/enamels/resins etc and may remove any painting/enamel or coloring added.
* Extreme heat can be brutal on some creations as well (ie: do not leave on or near a heater, Resin sealed, painted / colored, shrink art work should Definitely avoid being exposed to extreme heat or stored in direct sunlight for extended periods. Sun/heat can damage resin/shrink art. Wearing on a sunny day may be fine for a little while, but wearing a resin/shrink art piece in the sun for hours of direct sunlight, may be bad. Signs you may have gotten heat/sun damage, if you see the art piece start to look cloudy. You will know if you got direct extreme heat if the piece warps in any way (ie: you put a piece on and then decide to blow dry your hair, and for some reason the blower blew heat directly on the art piece). Which is why it is always best to put your jewelry on last After your hair is done and your make-up is applied.
* Your EYESCREAM creation should have come with either a gift pouch or box. Most times this is enough for storing. Use common sense when introducing other elements into your storing equation (temperature/heat/moisture/environmental location). It may be best to store any items with any amount of silver content and or base metals, in a box, sealed pouch, or ziplock and away from air: This will potentially help metal from oxidizing as fast, especially if you prefer your silver or metal in a brighter tone/finish) because silver oxidizes in air & other metals like copper and brass age, shift colors or change hues over time when exposed to the environment, air and your body oils. Do the same with copper & brass, unless you like those metals to age and shift with time (*shifting metal colors on base metal, could include darkening, splotches of colors, verdigris tones dependent on moisture/chemicals and metal involved etc). Please do not store or display base metals in a room with loads of moisture without knowing what may occur. Depending on the metal, moisture can wreak havoc over time on base metals. *In some instances, some metal designs I've created may have been gently sealed, but any sealants used will eventually wear off over time or wear and tear and won't protect it forever.
* Sterling Silver creations: Silver will oxidize/tarnish when exposed to air for extended periods. This may be desired by some, as it may create some character to pieces that have loads of raised details. Once you begin to wear a Sterling tarnished / oxidized piece, your natural oils will wear away any tarnish on the surface and leave oxidization in the cracks and folds, thus possibly placing emphasis on some designs. I don't have a lot of all sterling silver pieces at current, but pieces that are Sterling or Silver plated, or that contain a percent of silver, or are Silver Filled, treat them as Sterling because they may oxidize in the same way.
* Gift Boxes, pouches and other gift packaging: Jewelry Art, will either come in a gift pouch, gift bag, gift box or gift pillow box... depending on what is available and what is appropriate for each piece. Multiple creations may be in the same gift box (dependent on what is in the order), unless requested otherwise. Snake Vertebrae Spiral Hoop earrings will come in their own box for bone safety. Sorcery Collection, Copper Alchemy and Resin Art pieces will come with a proper care card (*if I have forgotten to include a proper care card, please refer to the list above, or message me for an email copy).
Thanks. ~X~
* While my work is mostly lead/nickel
free, there are some gunmetal plating on some older die stamping stock,
that may be questionable. I use those findings sparingly and will
state "Old Gunmetal Stock" on any listings. I do my best to describe
materials in each piece. If you have allergies toward a certain metal,
please feel free to contact me, in some cases, ear wires, findings, and
or chains might be able to be swapped out. ***I now use Stainless Steel
or St.St. chain/findings predominantly, and the new gunmetal chains I use
(sparingly because plating wears off and shows copper beneath if worn
daily and dependent on your own body oils and chemical make-up) are
Lead/nickel free. Items created with St.S/Stainless Steel
chain/findings should not tarnish/rust & will retain it's darker
bright silver look and is not plated, so metal will not wear off to
reveal other colors. (*Please note swapping out base metal options for
Sterling Silver ones, may incur a fee be added on to your order).
***
If ever a question of metals, materials, allergies etc, please contact
me prior to purchase, I will try to answer all questions regarding metal
content in a particular line or creation, the best that I can. While I choose supplies that are stated as Nickel Free, it is worth it to mention that most metals on the market (even if stated as nickel free) may or may not have a very small negligible amount possibly in the material or from the way it was produced. Similar to May Contain traces of. While most artists won't mention this, I myself have certain allergies and thought I would be upfront on stuffs. Thank
You.
* Plated Chains & Findings: Gunmetal, Black Matte, Silver Plate, Antiqued Silver, Antiqued Brass, Antiqued Bronze, Bronze, Antiqued Copper plate, Gold plate etc, are a base of either Copper or Brass under the plating. Silver Plate, Antiqued Silver, Sterling Plate, Gold Plate: May have a thin layer of Gold, or Sterling or Fine Silver plate over base metal Brass/Copper.
* SILVER FILL: I use this type of wire in my work the most from wirewraps to some Sorcery Collection work and beyond. SilverFill is not plated in the classical sense. It is Brass base core with Sterling Silver Bonded to the surface and will not wear off easily and will behave as Sterling Silver behaves.
* NOT PLATED: Pure Sterling Silver (SS,.925%), Fine Silver (FS, .999%), Raw Brass, Raw Copper and Stainless Steel (StS)
* Further Explanation of plated items: the plating layer is thin, and most plated items will wear down fairly fast dependent on moisture, wear and body oils, exposing the base metal beneath. On design stamps, this might mean that base metal exposure beneath, occurs mostly on the areas it is exposed to on your body (example, back of piece, edges of piece, raised surfaces etc).
* Metals not plated: Stainless Steel Chains (although recently have used a Black Plate Stainless which is a plate enamel plate over stainless, very hard to wear off, read product descriptions for details) & Stainless steel findings, Sterling Silver & Fine Silver, Raw Brass, Raw Copper (or those same raw metals given a patina chemical solution bath but not plated with another type of metal), and while the Sorcery Collection may not be "Plated" in the formal sense, it is still a base metal mix sculpted over another base metal, so while it does not go through the standard electro-plating process, I would still kind of consider it a plated metal. Although if the sculpted Sorcery Collection piece is a bit thicker sculpted on the surface, it may not wear down to show the base metal beneath.
*** The Lifespan of Plated Metals:* Pieces with Art Nouveau, Deco, or other lavish stamped Gothic Victorian designs, may be plated with Silver, antiqued brass, antiqued bronze, antiqued copper, gunmetal, black matte finish etc, may shift colors the more worn. Plating is not permanent on any plated chains, plated findings or design die stamps, and will wear off over time (*dependent on each person's chemical makeup / body oils, wear etc.) Once plating begins to wear off, the base metal beneath will be exposed. It does not lessen the overall design stability of a piece, but will create a new affect / look to a piece.
* Please note I do not have the facilities to re-plate metals. Most people tend to be fine with plated stamped creations and chains shifting over time (as they are used to the process with other pieces purchased elsewhere), since most designs may have been with them for a long time and they feel connected to pieces and have grown accustomed to the pieces taking on a new life slowly over time, making them look weathered & more like vintage creations.
* Earring Hooks: Most of the earrings hooks that I currently use are Stainless Steel french hooks. St.S is not plated, will not shift colors and is a good alternative for people with allergies to other metals. I also hand make my own french hooks in Silver Fill, which I sometimes use on my largest EYESCREAM Original creations like the Bone Vert Earrings, because then I can size up the ear hook gauge by using maybe 20ga, 18ga etc, which is helpful with very large/heavy pieces or when someone wants a specialty larger round hook for tunnels.
* I stopped using any other types of metal hooks like plated hooks, gunmetal/brass/copper plate etc, because they were just too flimsy. So now even if it is a Brass Alchemy earring, it may have a Stainless Steel hook... so be prepared and read descriptions and look at photos.
* Sterling Silver ear hooks are by request and may cost a little more to swap out.
* Silver Fill or Gold Fill:
Precious metal bonded to a base metal (usually brass, but in the early
days it was mainly copper). Silver or Gold Fill, Has a thicker layer of
sterling silver or gold vs plated metals, (which has a minuscule amount
of sterling silver or 12kt/14kt gold plated onto the surface of a base
metal). In the case of SF or GF, Silver or Gold is mechanically bonded
to the surface of a base metal. It lasts much longer than "plated"
metals, in fact I have worn many creations in Silver Fill and the
Sterling has yet to "Wear Down". So far, the only time I have seen a
change in the metal, is if some other metal instrument causes a deep
gash in the Silver fill outer layer, enough to potentially expose the
brass base core beneath. This effect can be a good one if you are
designing a piece with the idea of having two tones of metal showing to
enhance the design in some way and it was a desired effect.
* Silver Fill will behave much like Sterling Silver does,
it will tarnish / Oxidize in the air, over time, dependent on humidity
levels, and if you store your piece protected within a box, pouch,
ziplock baggie, away from the air or not. It will also oxidize in the
cracks and folds and your body oils will keep the surface of your piece
naturally shiny from your own body oils rubbing on exposed areas. Silver
or Gold Fill is a good substitution for pure Silver or Gold and at a
fraction of the cost (in some cases). Silver fill can also be antiqued
& given a patina as well, much like Sterling Silver.
* I may refer to Silver Fill as S.F. and Gold Fill as G.F. in descriptions FYI.
* Sorcery Collection are mostly Copper or Brass based, and could have some sterling wire or other silver elements in the design, or silver fill wire added (dependent per piece as I create them), that then has a layer of lead free silver alloy tin sculpted on top. (* Silver Alloy may contain a small amount of silver mixed in to the tin as well). Using Mixed Metals in this way have allowed me to be able to sculpt molten metal directly to the stone or components as I work, and has opened up a new freedom in my creation process. While it may not be all silver as some past designs, I would not be able to create what I have in this collection if I had just made all with sterling silver. Most of these works are just not possible to achieve done any other way. Sorcery Collection pieces have been gently sealed, but because there are mixed metals in the base and top material, it is still best to store dry and keep away from moisture.
* Copper Alchemy: These pieces are copper electroformed over potentially organic materials, metal, clay, resin, stones etc. Electroforming is the process of depositing layers of metal particles onto an organic item (in most cases) and or other metal. Electroplating, is the process of plating a thin layer of metal onto another metal. Electroformed creations can have a thin layer of metal or a thick layer of metal deposited onto an item, all dependent on the creator & the length of time of the process involved to create the electroformed item.
* Raw Copper & Brass: Most Copper & Brass pieces I am doing lately in the Hand Stamped series, may have different sealants. Most may be lightly sealed with an environmentally friendly sealant, some Raw Brass or Raw Copper stamped pieces may only have a light wax seal buffed in, and the light wax seal will dissipate over time and with wear. Raw Base metal creations may be prone to color shifts due to improper storage, moisture, or time, and may cause a little skin discoloration on areas most exposed directly to metal (and sweat). Again, any discoloration that base metals may cause on skin is nothing to worry about and will wash away easily.
* As of 2020 I had switched over to sealing raw base metal works with the environmentally friendly sealant because it tends to last a lot longer than the Renaissance wax I was using. There may be some older works I post that may or may not have had the wax buff instead. Either way, treat with care.
* Artistic Wire: Enamel coated copper base wire. Special care and nylon tools are used when creating pieces in colored Artistic Wire. Proper care must be taken when storing creations with Artistic Wire, so as not to scrape off the colored enamel from the wire. Scraping colored Artistic Wire with metal tools, or hard objects, could expose the copper beneath the coating, so crafting pieces in this type of wire I have to be extremely careful and thoughtful and slow in the process. I still craft Dragonflies, some Bats and other baubles with this type of wire because I love the vibrancy of color it injects into the piece.
* Some metal pieces are finished in
either a dark gray / gunmetal patina (which I may call antiqued) or left
in a shiny bright finish that is then gently sealed.
* Please note antiquing is not meant to last forever
Items with a patina (at current) are lightly sealed and may
dissipate over time leaving metal open to shift colors. Metal may shift
colors the more you wear it (from oils & moisture). With all of
these aspects at work, it may also enhance the concept of an aged
artifact recently unearthed once the color shifts begin.
* Different Patinas create different color effects
and each type of metal has a different chemical that is used. No one
chemical patina will last forever (ie: antiqued electro-plating will
eventually wear off, usually on the places it touches your skin the most and
dependent on how often you wear that piece, Chemically antiqued Sorcery
Collection, or Silver Alchemy pieces, the antiquing should last a good
while if there are cracks and folds for the patina to go into on a
design. Any portions of smooth metal that has been chemically antiqued,
will wear off dependent again on how often you wear it and the oils in
your body naturally cleaning the areas of metal that most touch it.
Copper Alchemy line is chemically antiqued and the patina will wear off
on the areas that touch your skin the most, which will reveal a brighter
copper color and shine.
* Patina & Antiquing Silver Alchemy Work:
My Sterling silver and Silver Fill designs as well as some Copper
Alchemy pieces, may have been antiqued (given a patina) by giving the
metal a bath in a liver of sulfur solution.
* Patina & Antiquing Sorcery Collection & Brass Stamped creations:
These pieces may have been given a patina with chemicals strictly
created for base metals. Some create a gray or darkened gunmetal effect,
and some a warm dark brown effect.
* You can clean the metal gently with a dry Polishing cloth as needed, just be careful you do not buff away the oxidization/antiqued patina.
* A NOTE ON CLEANING PIECES: If
polishing metal that has been antiqued, you may loose some or all of the
antiquing / patina from your piece, especially the parts of the metal
that are being rubbed /buffed with the cloth. AVOID dipping any of my
art jewelry into a jewelry cleaning chemical bath, as most pieces may
have stones, enamel work or other concept that would not fair well
within such chemicals.
* Metal Blemishes:
Some creations may have a blemish on the metal, so metal styles,
sculpted metal designs, stamped metal and or plating may not always be
perfect.
* My work is Never Perfect, there may be a blemish, blip, pit or otherwise. It is the nature of handmade one of a kind work that is not mass produced and that may include a variety of mixed media/materials, found/recycled objects, and a mix of smithing and non-smithing techniques.
* Most of the rough opals I use have not been stabilized (stabilization in the simplest terms, is when a resin or epoxy is added to the soft stone surface, to fill in any fractures and to seal it for stability, and most may get a backing added for support or to enhance color play). My recent opals, may still be in an organic form, that I cleaned and gently formed straight from rough. I tend to do this to try to keep the natural shape of the opal (in most cases). A lot of opals, (when Not stabilized), may be prone to cracking or crazing (when little cracks or fissures are in the stone, some can be seen and others may not). Stabilization fills in those fissures, and at current, I choose to work with organic rough and do not seal the stones (although I do have some cabochons that may have been stabilized) so most of the rough I use may already have inherent crazing happening as soon as the pieces were dug up. Some opals might crack from extreme drastic shifts in temperature, & opals may shift colors or fade in certain temperatures and water. Most opal colors will bounce back once the stone has dried out most of the water content from washing your hands (as an example). To be safe, you should still avoid submerging opals for extended periods, so best to avoid showering or washing dishes in your opals. Even though opals are comprised of a small percentage of water (which differs per type of opal and location of opal).
* Current Opals on stock: Ethiopian Welo Opal, I also have some boulder opal, opal doublets or triplets (doublets/triplets are stabilized), and some vintage Coober Pedy Opal from Australia, Mexican Fire Opal, as well as some lower grade opals without color flash (ie: yellow, pink, dendretic opal). I will try to list what type of opal is used in most creations, if I can recall. At best, wear your opal often, take notice not to wear during certain harsh activities, store opals separate from other jewelry to protect from scratching, do not rub with a harsh cloth (might scratch), avoid extreme heat (further cracking).
* To clean rough opals: Use gentle strokes and wash gently with a TINY little bit of gentle soap & tiny amount of water (*gentle and mild are the key words here and by tiny amount of either, tiniest drop of soap and tiny drop of water as needed), shake, or pat dry, make sure all metal is dry, and leave to fully dry in the air, and avoid water cleaning with Doublet or triplet opals (since the stabilization is done with materials that can break down in water). If you have a lot of gunk build up, you could use a Very VERY soft old toothbrush with a TINY bit of mild soap and light water (*old is key on a soft bristle toothbrush*) which is also good for cleaning hard to reach places around the house (*always use a separate toothbrush for jewelry cleaning vs housework). If no gunk build up on stone but more on the metal surrounding the stone, attempt to avoid brushing stone and opt to focus on the metal instead. While opals may get scratched, this is natural given how soft some are, if you take a bit of care as outlined above, it may help prolong their surface look.
** Special Note: IF Opal especially Welo of which I may use predominantly in my work, which is usually pretty rough/raw and the like... ANY water that gets on the opal may drastically shift the color or flash of the opal. Sometimes the opal will look like it no longer has color. This is common. Opals are finicky when not processed as with Raw Welo. allowing them to dry (which may take some time) should bring flash back. The same can happen if the opal gets TOO cold. (*shrugs).
* To Recap: Take care and be mindful of EYESCREAM creations that utilize soft stones (ie: opals, pearls, turquoise, amber etc). Protect all your soft stones by keeping them away from extreme heat, chemicals, and extended periods in water. Gentle care should also be taken so as not to scratch or damage your soft stone creations. Please avoid harsh scrubbing or harsh rubbing while light cleaning occurs. Store all soft stone creations separate from other jewelry pieces (to further protect the stone) and avoid harsh environments & activities like manual labor, moving heavy duty items etc.
* I have been collecting stones for well over 30+ years and collecting found objects, parts and supplies for longer. Some stones I have cut, cleaned, shaped, faceted and or polished myself. A lot of
the stones are sourced from All over the place and each piece I have
hand selected for one reason or another for their interest, beauty, style or feel.
* Some stones may have imperfections
like chips, scratches, inclusions and or color variations. Stones used
are a mix of smooth/polished, faceted, or raw/rough. I work with a lot
of raw/rough stones and minerals in general, as I find beauty in pieces
that may not be as desired to most because of their inherent surface
imperfections. To me it gives the creations more of their own unique
character and charm. While I may have some perfect to near perfect stone
offerings, most of my stones are offered as is, rough and from the
earth in most cases, cut, faceted or polished rough, or smooth high
polish.
* Some metal components & surfaces may also have blemishes or imperfections.
* When working with stones, I may have an idea or color concept or not. I will open boxes and drawers of my stone collection and wait to see what I am drawn to at that time. Sometimes I may pull out a handful of different minerals and lay them out, sometimes there is a wire design or concept I already have in mind, so selecting the right stone may take some testing. Sometimes it is purely just about the stone choosing to be seen first. I tend to go for stones with fire, flash, color play, druzies, inclusions, rainbows, or painterly effects. Sometimes the stone dictates the design, and other times the design is waiting for the right stone to fit the equation... and Most times I forget that I am supposed to be designing/making and instead I get lost in stones for hours. I HEART STONES!!!